Kampsun: Leaves in relief

arisaigsamuscinxiajosephineblackberryrevolutionlacey leaves in reliefbloomellaflorahipsterfalling leavesbubby edgarastrodomepumpkinstit bitsyorick

by Ariel Barton When one of my best friends got married, I decided to knit her a wedding present. Her recent move from California to Chicago suggested a sweater. I knew that what she missed most about West Coast winters was trees with leaves. The sleeves are based on a twining vine leaf pattern taken from Barbara Walker's "A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns." The front features an elaboration of the twining trees from "Charted Knitting Designs." The sweater is made of soft merino wool, warm without being itchy. This pattern is designed to give slightly more experienced knitters a place to showcase their skills. Nonetheless, it should be possible for anyone who can handle cables to make it; all you need is the ability to read a chart and pay close attention to detail. model: Mary Middendorf photos: Ariel Barton SIZE XS[S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL] To fit bust 30[33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48] inches FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust: 31[34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49] inches Length: 24.5[25, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26] inches MATERIALS The model is knit in undyed worsted-weight yarn from handpaintedyarn.com. A substitute that works up to the same gauge: Patons Classic Merino [100% merino wool; 223 yd per 100g skein]; 6[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] skeins 1 24-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle 1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles 1 spare circular needle, 16 inch or longer, US 7/4.5mm or smaller Stitch markers Stitch holders Waste yarn Crochet hook Safety pin (optional) GAUGE 21 sts/30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch after blocking PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here] Chart A and Chart C are PDF files. You will need the free Acrobat Reader to read them. You can find it here. Crochet Cast On Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each st until the required number of sts have been worked. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up. 1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts): Round 1: [K1, p1] to end. Repeat this round for 1x1 Rib. M1p: Make 1 purl st. Lift strand between st just worked and next st by inserting left needle from front to back, p through back loop. Note: When pattern indicates that a certain number of sts has been increased or decreased during shaping, this does not include sts that have been increased or decreased in the course of working the stitch pattern. DIRECTIONS Sleeves (Make 2) Using double-point needles, CO 36[36, 36, 36, 48, 48, 48] sts. Distribute sts between 3 needles (12[12, 12, 12, 16, 16, 16] sts on each needle), place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Note: It is important to distribute sts as described above. When working sleeves, some instructions are given to be repeated "on each needle", or in other words, to be worked 3 times in that round. Sizes XS, S, M, L Only: First Round: P1, k2, [p2, k2] to last st, p1. Repeat this round 13 times more. Sizes XL, 2XL, 3XL Only: First Round: K1, p2, [k2, p2] to last st, k1. Repeat this round 19 times more. Note: There is no provision in the pattern for lengthening or shortening the sleeves. As written, they are 20 inches long. If you wish to lengthen or shorten them, it should be done now, by lengthening or shortening the ribbing a the bottom of the sleeve. The sleeve ends on a specific row of Chart B, and the raglan sleeve cap begins on a specific row of Chart C. All Sizes: Next Round: [P0[0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2], work Row 1 of Chart B, p0[0, 0, 0, 2, 2, 2]] on each needle. Work 14 rounds in patt as set, working through Rows 2-15 of Chart B. Sleeve Increase Round: [M1, work to end of needle in patt as set] on each needle. 3 sts increased. Note: Do not repeat Rows 1-7 of Chart B; these are Set Up Rows. Repeat Rows 8-31 only. Work 11[11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12] rounds in patt as set, purling new sts. Work Sleeve Increase Round. Repeat these 12[12, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13] rounds 8[8, 8, 8, 4, 4, 4] times more. 27[27, 27, 27, 15, 15, 15] sts increased. Sizes XL, 2XL, 3XL Only: Work 12 rounds in patt as set. Next Round: P1, m1, work in patt to last st of round, m1, p1. Repeat these 13 rounds twice more. 6 sts increased. All Sizes: Cont in patt as set until work measures 20 inches, ending with Row 16[16, 16, 16, 10, 10, 10] of Chart B. 78[78, 78, 78, 96, 96, 96] sts on needle. Next Round: P11[11, 11, 11, 9, 9, 9], place 12 sts just worked (incl. last 1[1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3] sts from prev. row) on waste yarn. Place rem sts of first sleeve on spare circular needle, leave rem sts of second sleeve on double-point needles. Break yarn, leaving 12-inch tail. Lower Body Hem Using smaller circular needle and Crochet Cast On, CO 164[180, 196, 212, 224, 240, 256] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Work 11 rounds in 1x1 Rib. Next Round: Continuing in Rib as set, work 9[13, 17, 21, 24, 28, 32] sts, place marker (first front marker), work 64 sts, place marker (second front marker), work 9[13, 17, 21, 24, 28, 32] sts, place marker (side marker), work to end of row (end marker already placed at end of row). Next Round: Switching to larger circular needle, k8, p to 8 sts before side marker, k to end of round. Repeat this round 12 times more. Next Round: Remove crochet chain from CO a few sts at a time, placing live sts on spare double-point needle; work each st from body together in patt with corresponding st from CO edge. Hem is complete. Lower Body Shaping: Note: Due to large number of sts in Chart A, Size XS is worked without waist shaping. Size XS Only: Next Round: K8, p1, work Row 1 of Chart A (ends at second front marker), p1, k to end of round. Work in patt as set to Row 113 of Chart A. Proceed to Yoke. Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL Only: Next Round: K7, ssk, p to first front marker, work Row 1 of Chart A (ends at second front marker), p to 9 sts before side marker, k2tog, k14, ssk, k to 9 sts before end marker, k2tog, k7. 4 sts decreased. Work _[12, 9, 7, 6, 6, 6] rows in patt as set. Next Round: K7, ssk, work in patt as set to 9 sts before side marker, k2tog, k14, ssk, k to 9 sts before end marker, k2tog, k7. Repeat these _[13, 10, 8, 7, 7, 7] rounds _[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5] times more. _[12, 16, 20, 24, 24, 24] sts decreased. Work _[16, 15, 16, 18, 20, 20] rounds in patt as set. Increase Round: K8, m1p, work in patt to 8 sts before side marker, m1p, k16, m1, k to 8 sts before end marker, m1, k8. Work _[12, 9, 7, 6, 6, 6] rounds in patt as set. Repeat these _[13, 10, 8, 7, 7, 7] rounds _[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5] times more, then work Increase Row once more. _[16, 20, 24, 28, 28, 28] sts increased. Cont in patt as set until Row 113 of Chart A has been completed. Yoke Note: ALL SIZES continue here. Joining Round: Work in patt to 6 sts before side marker, place marker (right front raglan marker), place next 12 sts on waste yarn, work Row 7[7, 7, 7, 1, 1, 1] of Chart C across held sts of one sleeve, place marker (right back raglan marker), k to last 6 sts of row, place next 12 sts on waste yarn, place marker (left back raglan marker), work Row 7[7, 7, 7, 1, 1, 1] of Chart Cacross held sts of one sleeve, place marker (left front raglan marker), k1. 281[297, 313, 329, 377, 393, 409] sts. Note: This point, one stitch past the left front raglan stitch marker, will now be the beginning of the row. You may wish to place a stitch marker here, but it will need to be moved each time a raglan decrease is worked. It may be more helpful, if desired, to place a safety pin in your work at this point and to move it up periodically. As work progresses, the raglan decreases will encroach on the front markers. When this happens, draw a vertical line 5-10 sts in from each edge of the chart and move the stitch markers inward to the point indicated by this line. (Or, if you prefer, remove the st markers entirely.) In either case, the front markers should be removed after Row 130 of Chart A has been completed. Next Row: Work in patt to 2 sts before right front raglan marker, k2tog, work next row of Chart C , ssk, k to 2 sts before left back raglan marker, k2tog, work next row of Chart C , ssk. Work 1 row in patt as set. Repeat these 2 rounds 13[17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 25] times more; Row 35[43, 47, 51, 49, 53, 53] ofChart C completed, all rows of Chart A completed. Work 1 more row in patt, working raglan decreases as set, completing Row 36[44, 48, 52, 50, 54, 54] of Chart C . Shape Front Neck P16. Place next 6[6, 10, 14, 16, 20, 28] sts on st holder or waste yarn and turn work so WS is facing. K1, ssk, k13, cont in patt as set to left front raglan marker, k13, k2tog, k1. Turn work. Next Row [RS]: Work in patt, working raglan decreases as set. Next Row [WS]: K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; 10 sts rem on each side of front neck, between front raglan markers and front edges. Row 43[51, 55, 59, 57, 61, 61] of Chart C completed. Shape Right Shoulder Next Row [RS]: P8, k2tog, work next row of Chart C , ssk, k8. Turn work so WS is facing. Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to marker, work next row of Chart C , p1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next Row [RS]: Work in patt, working raglan decreases as set. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Next Row [WS]: P2tog, p1, work next row of Chart C, p1, k2tog. Next Row [RS]: K2tog, work next row of Chart C, ssk. Row 52[60, 64, 68, 66, 70, 70] of Chart C complete, 22[14, 10, 6, 8, 4, 4] sts of shoulder rem. Place rem sts on st holder or waste yarn. Shape Left Shoulder With RS facing, rejoin yarn to last 10 sts of back, placing center back sts on st holder. Next Row [RS]: K8, k2tog, work next row of Chart C, ssk, p8. Next Row [WS]: K1, ssk, k to 1 st before marker, p1, work next row of Chart C, p to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1. Next Row [RS]: Work in patt, working raglan decreases as set. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Next Row [WS]: Ssk, p1, work next row of Chart C, p1, p2tog tbl. Next Row [RS]: K2tog, work next row of Chart C, ssk. Place rem 22[14, 10, 6, 8, 4, 4] sts on st holder or waste yarn. Collar Using double-point needles, k held back neck sts, pick up and k 3 sts in every 4 rows along left back neck edge, k held sts of left shoulder, pick up and k 3 sts in every 4 rows along left front neck edge, k held sts of front neck, pick up and k 3 sts in every 4 rows along right front neck edge, k held sts of right shoulder, pick up and k 3 sts in every 4 rows along right back neck edge. Work 18 rounds of 1x1 Rib. BO all sts loosely in patt. FINISHING Graft held sts of body to held sts of sleeves at underarms. Weave in ends. Wash sweater by hand and lay flat to dry, shaping as necessary.

Kuidas teha vildist maasikaid.

Elina kurgisalat

Aga selle salati jaoks on vajalikud toiduained:

1 kg kurki (sobivad nii pikk kui ka lühike kurk)

0,5 kg mugulsibulat

5 tl soola

5 tl suhkrut

1 dl toiduõli (ikka sellist, mis ka kuumutamist kannatab)

3 tl 30%-list söögiäädikat

kimp tilli (no umbes poolteist niisugust kimpu, nagu poes müüakse)

Valmistamine:

*kurgid koorida ja viilutada

*sibul puhastada ja viilutada

*segada kausis kurk, sibul, sool, suhkur, õli, äädikas ja hakitud till

*lasta segul seista toatemperatuuril 3-6 tundi (võiks paar korda selle aja jooksul ka segada)

* tõsta salat koos eraldunud vedelikuga purkidesse ja kuumutada (kaaned lahtiselt peal) 15 minutit (0,5 liitrised purgid) ning seejärel sulgeda kohe õhukindlalt.

*lasta jahtuda ja viia siis säilituskohta

Kootud suvemüts

Mimmi blogist pärit suvemütsi kudumisõpetus.Tänud Mimm Isetegijast!

Tööjuhend- SUVEMÜTS

Alljärgnev õpetus on peaümbermõõdule 54 cm. Ristkorrutise valemi järgi saab arvutada vajalike silmuste arvu kõikidele peaümbermõõtudele.



Kuidas arvutada, vastavalt peaümbermõõdule, mütsi kudumiseks vajalike silmuste arvu?

Silmuste arvu saab arvutada ristkorrutise teel. Selleks koo mütsi lõngaga tööproov. Loo 20 silmst ja koo 20 rida parempidist kudet. Aseta mõõdulint või joonlaud tööproovile ja mõõda mitu silmust on 5 cm- l. Mina kudusin tööproovi "Katka"st ja sain silmuste arvuks 5 cm- l 10 (*) silmust.

(*)- märge näitamaks, kust see number 10 saadakse.

Nüüd arvutasin ristkorrutise teel vajaliku silmuste arvu (peaümbermõõdule 54 cm) nii:




Näiteks:
Kudusin "Katka"st paremidises koes tööproovi. Mõõtsin ära, mitu silmust on 5 cm- l. Sain vastuseks, et 5 cm- l on 10 silmust.

Vajaliku silmuste arvu sain nii:

x= 54 x 10:5 = 108 silmust

NB! Selleks, et kududa mütsi peaümbermõõdule 54 cm, pean kas looma või kasvatusridadega kasvatama kokku 108 silmust. Selline silmuste arv peaks olema ennem, kui asun mütsi keskosa kuduma. Kes koob, kas väga tugevalt või väga lõdvalt, võib mõne silmuse rohkem või vähem kasvatada. Kindluse mõttes võib esimesel korral teha lõngast proovitöö. Luua vajalik arv silmuseid ja kududa umbes 10 rida parempidist kudet. Seejärel kududa silmused pehmelt maha ja proovida tööproovi pähe. Kui midagi ei klapi, siis saab kohe, kas mõned silmused rohkem või vähem kasvatada. Aga üldjuhul ristkorrutise teel saadud vajalik silmuste arv, soovitud peaümbermõõdule, on ilusti sobinud.


1. Vajalikud töövahendid:

. puuvillane lõng "Katka", lõngakulu umbes 40 g

. heegelnõelad nr. 1 ja 2

. sukavardad nr. 2,5

. ringvardad nr. 2 (50 cm)

. sukanõel ja käärid

See suvemüts on kombineeritud järgmiselt: kootud pealagi + kasvatusread ja keskosa ning heegeldatud alläär.

Suvemütse võib kududa kahte varianti:

1.variant- loon vajaliku arvu (ristkorrutise teel arvutatud silmuste arv, mis sobib peaümbermõõduga) silmuseid. Koon soovitud mustrit kuni soovitud pikkuseni ja teen kahandusread (ümara kahanduse) pealael.

2. variant- alustan kudumist pealaelt. Kasvatan vajaliku arvu silmuseid ja koon (suunaga alla) keskosa ja allääre.

Selle suvemütsi tööjuhend on 2. variandi kohta.


2. Mütsi alustamine pealaelt

Mütsi pealagi koo alljärgnevas koekirjas.



1. Pealaelt mütsi kudumist alustades, alustad kudumist keskelt. Heegelda alguseks ümber lõngast moodustatud aasa koekirjas vajalik arv silmuseid. Heegelda 8 silmust (vt, joonist). Kasuta heegelnõela nr.1



2. Jaga silmused neljale sukavardale (nr. 2,5) ja tõmba lõngaotsast aas kinni (vt. joonist)



3. Ennem koekirja kudumist, koo üks ring parempidist kudet. Tavaliselt on koekirjas antud 1/8 mustrist, mis tähendab, et seda tuleb igal vardal kududa kaks korda. Paarisread ei ole koekirjas märgitud. Koo need parempidises koes.
Pärast antud mustri lõpetamist koo veel üks ring parempidi.

Nüüd vaheta sukavardad ringvarraste (nr.2) vastu. Nüüd on varrastel kokku 64 silmust. Ristkorrutise abil saime vastuseks, et nr. 54 peaümbermõõdule kootavale mütsile on vaja kokku 108 silmust. Praegu, pärast pitsilises koes pealae kudumist, on varrastel 64 silmust. Nüüd tuleb kasvatusridadega juurde kasvatada puuduolev arv silmuseid ehk siis 64+44= 108 silmust. Juurde on vaja kasvatada 44 silmust. Alusta kasvatusridade kudumist.


3. Kasvatusridade kudumine

Kasvatusridu koome 3.
Vot, nende kasvatusridadega saabki mütside suuruste juures nn. "mängida". Kududes rohkem kasvatusridu, saame suuremale peaümbermõõdule sobiva mütsi ja kududes vähem kasvatusridu, saame väiksemale peaümbermõõdule sobiva mütsi.

1. kasvatusrida- võta iga 5 silmuse tagant vardale lõngakeerd (sellel ringil kasvata juurde 16 silmust), (vt. joonist).

Vaherida- koo ring parempidises koes.

Vaherida- koo ring parempidises koes.

2. kasvatusrida- kasvata juurde 14 silmust (hajuta juurde kootavad silmused, vastavalt soovile).

Vaherida- koo ring parempidises koes.

Vaherida- koo ring parempidises koes.

3. kasvatusrida- kasvata juurde 14 silmust (hajuta juurde kootavad silmused, vastavalt soovile).

Vaherida- koo ring parempidises koes.



Oluline on, et ennem keskosa kudumist, oleks varrastel 108 silmust. Kindlasti peaks olema, pitsilise koekirja kudumiseks, varrastel paarisarv silmuseid.


4. Mütsi keskosa kudumine



Kokku kudusin keskosaks 6 cm pitsilist kudet. Või koo keskosa nii pikk, kui soovid. Koo silmused pehmelt maha. Keskosaks võib kududa ka teisi pitsilisi koekirju. Kui Sa heegeldatud alläärt ei soovi, siis koo pitsilist koekirja kuni allääreni (s.t nii pikk müts, kui soovid).


5. Heegeldatud alläär ja viimistlemine

Heegelda ringselt 4 rida meeldivat heegelpinda. Alläär heegelda üle sämpudega või väikse äärepitsiga. Katkesta lõng ja peida lahtine lõngaots mütsi sisse. Meisterda kaunistuseks antenn või aas.

Kombineerimisel kasutasin järgmiseid allikaid: Ajakiri "Käsitöö" sügis/2005, A. Pink "Kudumine".